Five Decades of Barolo & Barbaresco Dinner: Friday 9th March 2012

Late last year I was approached to organize an Italian dinner featuring some old and great bottles of Barolo and Barbaresco from decades past. Getting the wine was not a problem, as in Italy, there are still many cellars with access to these great bottles. However, buying old bottles does not always guarantee success and it is as much about the cork as it is about vintages, producers, etc.

However on Friday night. The goddess of Italian wine was definitely shining on us, with some of the best examples of aged Barolo and Barbaresco I have drunk in my lifetime. Also Scopri as always did a fantastic job with the food.

Here are my thoughts on the wine:

Zeppole Al Formaggio

Ca’ Del Bosco Franciacorta ‘Anna Maria Clementi’ 2001

Lovely well rounded palate. Someone made the comment of lemon sherbet and it is probably the perfect description for the wine. Also fennel/anice, bright acidity and fantastic length. Years ahead of it.

Quaglia Arrostita con fichi in pancetta

Giacomo Conterno Barolo Monfortino 1941

An old wine, just a shell of it’s past but still distinctly Nebbiolo. Fantastic nose, still vibrant and alive.

Giacomo Conterno Barolo Monfortino 1952

Lovely wine, still amazing, still living, breathtaking palate that ticks all the boxes when it comes to Barolo. Roses, violets, vibrant acidity. Incredible.


Spiedini di cervo con marmelata di cipolla rossa

Borgogno Barolo Riserva 1955

Again still alive, lovely fragrance and length. Amazing acidity.

Borgogno Barolo Riserva 1962

Great length, amazing palate. Wow!! Still so young an vibrant. Colour still scream Nebbiolo.

Risotto al radicchio, vino rosso e provola

Mario Minuto fu Giovanni Barbaresco Riserva ‘Fascetto’ 1964

Lovely feminine wine. Still some primary fruit with fantastic texture and length.

Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Canale 1967 (released for Alba Truffle Festival 1976

Hints of caramel, mocha, acidity. It is old in age but still plenty of years left in it.

Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva ‘Rabaya’ 1967

Perfumed and fragrant, the palate still has amazing length and character.

Tagliatelle al ragu leggero di vitello

Produttori del Barbaresco Riserva Ovello 1970

First bottle corked, second bottle not as complex as previous bottles. Balanced but without any drive or complexity.

Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco 1976

Initially amazing, so balanced and complete. Layers upon layers of fruit. However, within 5-10 minutes this wine really died in the glass to leave just a shell. Drink quickly!!

Brasato di agnello al Barolo

Borgogono Barolo Riserva 1976

Dirty wine, milky and unpolished. Almost like the fruit and tannins have been melted together. However a wine a like. Love richness of fruit.

Ceretto Bricco Rocche Barolo Brunate 1986

Sound wine, but not my style. Old school, a touch simple and outclassed in tonight’s’ line up.

Testun di Barolo

Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco 1974

Corked.

Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco 1974 (Jeroboam)

Awesome, still years ahead of it. Deep colour, vibrant palate, in the prim of it’s life. This is why I love Produttori so much.

Crostatina ai frutti di bosco

Paolo Saracco Moscato d’Asti DOCG 2011 (Magnum)

This has really settled down in the last few months. Intense, not overly rich but it has amazing drive through the palate. Great way to finish the night.

Overall it was an amazing night and I was so happy with the way the wines look. A dozen great bottles drunk with a dozen fantastic people at one of Melbourne’s best Italian restaurants. Pretty hard to beat.

2 thoughts on “Five Decades of Barolo & Barbaresco Dinner: Friday 9th March 2012”

  1. Yes, certainly a unique experince in my lifetime I’d think. To think the war was in full roar when the 41 was harvested and made !

    Some of those older wines had morphed into other tertiary characters for mine but I could still see the nebbiolo structure and imprint. And what a perfect venue – a place that does Northern Italisn food proud. Great night with great people🙂

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